fort portobelo ruins panama portobelo ruins colon
The historical site of Portobelo is one of the oldest Spanish settlements along the Caribbean coast and was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1981. The fortifications were built to protect the settlement and Portobelo Bay.
There are three sections of ruins over an expanded area. Two of them — those most commonly visited — entwine with the community. The third section, which resides on the hillside across Portobelo Bay.
The first and largest section — Fort Santiago El Viejo — overlooks Portobelo Bay and straddles the main road as you enter the town. Along the left side is a shallow moat that runs the entire length of the fortification wall, which is in surprisingly good condition. It culminates at a lookout tower situated along the shoreline. To the right and atop the wall is a long row of cannons. Further to the right, you will find a large, open courtyard with fragments of ruins dispersed throughout the sod. There is a single cavern containing three long, rectangular chambers. The opening faces the courtyard and resides midway along the fortification wall. It is the only entrance along the wall, making it easy to find.
Further up the road and off to the left is the Customs House, which is just one of several historical sites in Portobelo. Behind the Customs House, you will find the second set of ruins. It consists of a large fortification wall and a long row of cannons that extend out into Portobelo Bay. At the far end, there is a large outcropping that includes a single lookout tower. To the right of the wall is an open courtyard. It’s impressive and well worth a visit. You can walk from the first set of ruins to the Customs House in just a few minutes. At the moment, the Customs House is closed for renovation.
Across the bay and separated into three distinct parts, you'll find the third section of ruins. A stone trail connects the lowest portion, which resides along the water's edge, to the middle sector, which is nearby and visible from below. It's an easy, short walk. You'll need to hike up a steep trail to visit the third and highest installation. The upper fort provides no views of the two lower sections but offers stunning views of Portobelo and its surroundings. To see these ruins, you must take a water taxi from the public dock, which resides just to the left of the first section or ruins you encounter when entering Portobelo.
Across from the ruins is a short, unmarked path that leads to a lookout area on the hillside. As you are nearing the ruins from Colon, the road climbs ever so slightly and bends to the right, and then, as you pass the ruins, the road descends and turns left. The path entrance is located just after the road turns left, off to the right side. The steps are comprised primarily of cement cinder blocks. Along the left side is a row of steel posts connected by a 2”-3” wide rope, which serves as the handrail. The trail is not particularly well cared for, and the vista is not spectacular, but it will give you an elevated view of the ruins and surroundings. It shouldn’t take more than a minute or two to reach the summit.
From Colon, buses to Portobelo depart regularly throughout the day. Buses to "La Guaria" also pass through Portobelo. If you're traveling by bus from Panama City, there is no need to go as far as Colon. Get off in "Sabanita," which resides approximately 30 minutes outside of Colon; most buses traveling between Panama City and Colon stop here. A REY Supermarket is on the corner (see Google Maps below). The same buses that depart Colon for Portobelo and La Guaria pass in front of the supermarket en route to Portobelo. From Sabanita, the trip to Portobelo takes about 40-60 minutes. See the map below for Sabanita.